Most visitors to the Perhentian Islands only see two beaches: Long Beach and Coral Bay. But on the eastern side of Pulau Perhentian Kecil, facing Perhentian Besar across the channel, sits the one place on these islands where people actually live all year round - Kampung Nelayan,
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| "Kampung Nelayan Perhentian Kecil Guide" |
the fishing village, also known as Kampung Pasir Hantu.
This is home for us. It is where our boats are based and where our crew grew up. Here is what you will find if you come and visit.
What is Kampung Nelayan?
Kampung Nelayan is a working village, not a resort strip. Around it you will find wooden houses on stilts, fishing boats pulled up on the sand, kids playing football on the beach in the late afternoon, and cats everywhere. Life follows the tide and the call to prayer rather than the party schedule.
Unlike the tourist beaches, the village has real infrastructure:
- A primary school - the island's only school
- A police station and a fire station
- A health clinic
- A mosque (more on that below)
- Grocery shops, warungs, and small restaurants
- The main village jetty, where the local ferries and water taxis come in
If you need a SIM card top-up, medicine, or just a plate of nasi campur that does not cost resort prices, this is where islanders go.
One important warning: there is no ATM in the village. Withdraw all the cash you will need before you get on the boat - at Kuala Besut, Jerteh or Kota Bharu. Card payment is rare here, mobile coverage can drop out, and once you are on the island there is no easy way to get money out. Running short of cash is the single most common mistake visitors make on the Perhentians.
Masjid Ar-Rahman: the mosque on the water
The landmark of the village is Masjid Ar-Rahman Pulau Perhentian, often called Masjid Putih (the White Mosque) by locals, and sometimes described as a floating mosque because part of the building sits out over the sea.
A mosque has stood in this village since 1936, built by the villagers themselves from timber cut on the island. The current building is much newer and much grander - white, spacious, holding around a thousand worshippers - and it is named after Dr A Rahman Mokhtar, a former state assemblyman who was born on Perhentian.
What makes it special for visitors is the setting. It has its own jetty, so boats can pull up directly. Inside, you can hear the sea while you pray. The view out across the channel to Perhentian Besar at sunrise is one of the quiet highlights of the island, and the mosque complex includes toilets, shower rooms and a place to eat.
Non-Muslim visitors are welcome to walk around the outside and take photos. Dress modestly - shoulders and knees covered - and avoid wandering through during Friday prayers.
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| "Kampung Nelayan Perhentian Kecil Guide" |
Chalets and homestays in Kampung Nelayan
The village has changed a lot in ten years. It used to be that almost no visitors slept here - people came for lunch on a boat trip and left. Today there is a real spread of budget accommodation, and a steady number of foreign travellers choose the village over the tourist beaches. They come for the price, the quiet, and for the chance to stay somewhere that is not built purely for tourists.
Accommodation here is village-style: family-run homestays, guesthouses and small chalets rather than resorts. It is generally cheaper than Long Beach or Coral Bay, and the experience is completely different - you are staying among the community, not beside a bar.
- Allo Perhentian - run by a Frenchman who lives here in the village year-round, the only one on the island doing so. If you would rather book with someone who speaks French and knows the village inside out, this is the one.
- Nemo Chalet - simple bungalows above a small bay, each with a sea-facing veranda. One of the better-known places in the village.
- Perhentian Sri Tanjung - homestay in the village, a short walk from Petani side, run by a very responsive local family.
- Perhentian Alia Guest House - small air-conditioned rooms with private bathrooms.
- Perhentian AB Guesthouse - budget guesthouse in the heart of the village.
- Perhentian MJ Fisherman Village - rooms with a restaurant attached.
- Homestay Yatie Fisherman Village - whole-house rental with a kitchen, good for small families.
- Mokdo Guest House and Summer Village - quiet, walking distance from the jetty.
Availability and prices change every season, so message the property directly before you travel. Expect fan or basic air-conditioning, intermittent Wi-Fi, and genuine island hospitality.
Eating in the village
Food in Kampung Nelayan is home cooking, and it is noticeably cheaper than at the resorts. Grilled fish straight off the boat, nasi lemak in the morning, keropok lekor, roti canai, ikan bakar in the evening. Many snorkeling boats stop here for lunch precisely for this reason - it is the best-value meal on the islands.
One thing to know: this is a Muslim village. Alcohol is not sold or consumed here, and beachwear is not appropriate once you step off the sand. A t-shirt and shorts is fine; a bikini walking through the village is not. Visitors who respect this are made very welcome.
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| "Kampung Nelayan Perhentian Kecil Guide" |
Weekend nights in the village
There are no bars here and no beach parties, but the village is not silent. On some weekend nights there are cultural performances on - traditional shows, and sometimes dikir barat, the group singing and percussion that Kelantan and Terengganu are known for. Dozens of performers sitting cross-legged, clapping and chanting in time, with a lead singer trading verses. It is loud, funny and completely local, and visitors are welcome to sit and watch.
Nothing is scheduled far in advance, so ask around when you arrive or message us and we will tell you if anything is happening that week.
How to get to Kampung Nelayan
Water taxis run from Long Beach, Coral Bay and the Perhentian Besar resorts to the village jetty, and prices vary depending on where you are coming from. Boats from Kuala Besut can also drop you here directly - just tell the boatman "Kampung Nelayan" or "Kampung Pasir Hantu" when you buy your ticket.
From the village, Petani Beach is roughly a 10 to 15 minute walk, and Keranji and Tuna Bay are close by. Remember the standard island costs: RM30 marine park fee at Kuala Besut jetty and around RM70 for the return boat transfer.
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| "Kampung Nelayan Perhentian Kecil Guide" |
Our base is here
Perhentian Private Snorkeling by Mat & Man operates out of Kampung Nelayan. Our Coral Bay booth has not reopened since the fire in April, so all bookings now go through WhatsApp: +60 19-917 9257.
We pick guests up wherever they are staying - the village, Long Beach, Coral Bay, Petani, or across on Perhentian Besar. Private boats take up to 12 passengers; sharing trips need a minimum of 4. Payment is cash on the island, and if the weather turns we reschedule your trip rather than cancel it.
And if you are staying in the village, come and say hello. We live here. Stop by, have a coffee with us, ask about the tides or the fishing or where to eat - no booking required. That is how things work in a kampung.
If you want to see the Perhentians as more than a beach, spend an afternoon in Kampung Nelayan. Walk past the mosque, eat where the boatmen eat, and watch the fishing boats come in. It is the part of the island that has not changed.




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